The Ring of Kerry

Ring of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry

It may not fit on your finger or come in gold or silver, but this Ring is studded with gems. Skirting Ireland’s most western point, hogging an obscene amount of beauty and cute-as-can-be villages – The Ring (as it’s known down there) is just a bit special. The circular loop starts and ends in Killarney (they could have called it ‘The Circle of Kerry’ but it wouldn’t have had the same ‘ring’ to it!) Undisputedly one of Ireland’s most scenic drives, it also provides the backdrop to the renowned Kerry Way walking trail. Pedal power will get you around the 216km too, on a wind-in-your-hair cycle route. However you travel, keep your camera handy every step of the way. Oh, and about 20 empty memory cards.

Killarney mon amour

Killarney charmed Queen Victoria back in 1861, and millions since. Eye-wateringly beautiful lakes, jarvey (horse-drawn coach) rides through Molls Gap, and the old-school grandeur of Muckross House (where Her Majesty lay her head) – Killarney ticks boxes you never knew existed. So before you loop the loop, head for Killarney National Park and those epic cloudy lakes – there’s even an island with a castle. Take a long awe-soaked gasp at Ladies’ View; a vista of three shimmering lakes bracketed by mountains named after The Queen’s ladies-in-waiting, before filling another memory card on your camera. Her Majesty had lunch in what is now the Muckross Park Hotel, and it still does a splendid afternoon tea while drinking in spectacular views of the park. Fit for a queen, and for you.

Gems on the Ring

Among the undulating fields, velutinous mountains and coastal panoramas so beautiful you forget your name, the Ring of Kerry passes through a raft of cute-as-pie villages. Pocket-sized spots such as Sneem; all eccentrically-coloured houses, sculpture park (don’t miss James Scanlon’s beehive huts) and perfect toasted sandwiches in the Village Restaurant. Then there’s Kenmare, whose postcard-perfect streets are no accident – it’s one of Ireland’s few planned towns. At Rossbeigh Beach you can team bathing with the grand dame of coastal views – the Dingle Peninsula. The route also throws up arguably the finest views of the Skellig Islands – again, keep your camera handy.

The Ring and the Stars

The Ring has attracted some eminent fans in its time. Pop into Waterville for the renowned Blue Flag beaches, and you’ll recognise the hat, cane, and moustache on the statue of Charlie Chaplin. He loved the village and has a comedy film festival held in his honour here each year. Take a swing on the links of Waterville Golf Club, and you’ll be following the footsteps of Tiger Woods, Nick Faldo and Michael Douglas. Sneem’s Parknasilla Hotel has had Charles de Gaulle and Princess Grace’s distinguished heads on their soft pillows. One of Ireland’s most venerated politicians, Daniel O’Connell, was born and raised in the Ring’s village of Cahirsiveen. His stoically beautiful ancestral home at Derrynane House is worth a camera click, or ten. Don’t say we didn’t warn you.